. green cheeked conure
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- Scientific Name: Pyrrhura molinae
molinae
- Common Name/s:
GREEN CHEEKED CONURE, MOLINA'S CONURE.
- Sub Species in country / area of origin:
5
- Origin / Distribution: Brazil
and surrounding countries. South
America.
- Habitat In Wild: Tropical
forests.
- Status In Wild: Secure.
- Status In (Australian) Captivity:
Secure.
- Age To Sexual Maturity: About
24 months.
- Adult plumage: attained at about
?
months
- Best breeding years (estimate):
2 years onwards
- Lifespan (estimate): approx.
20 or more
years
- Sexing: Monomorphic
/ Dimorphic. Surgical or DNA sexing is often
necessary.
- Colour mutations: Yes
- Availability: Bird dealers.
- Temperament: Probably the
easiest conure in Australia to breed. Can be bred in cages
or an aviary. Best kept one pair per aviary. Can can be
less noisy than other conures, but check to assess their suitability for a residential area. Like to chew
timber. Generally good parents.
- Cost (Victoria) Per Pair: -
Normal colour (Approx.) $650
- Description Of Adults:
Similar to the Maroon bellied conure. The main difference
being the Maroon bellied does not have the green cheeks.
- Length: Approx 260 mm (or approx. 10 inches)
- Colour ( "normal" colour ): Refer
photo/s above if available.
- Weight: Approx. 90 gms (or approx. 3 ozs)
Aviary Notes:Level Of Knowledge
Required: Beginner /
Intermediate / Advanced /
Specialist Breeders Only.
Government Regulations & By-Laws:
Refer to " Government Laws " web page.
Housing Requirements:
Refer to " Conures "
web page for general details on the housing of Conures.
Can be bred in a cage or an outdoor aviary. A
minimum cage size of about 900mm - 1000mm (about 3 feet) long, 600mm (2
ft.) wide and 600mm (2 ft) high is suitable. The nest box can be
externally attached to the cage with an entry hole of about 70 - 80 mm (3in.).
Conures indoors demand a lot of attention and
will need a good supply of toys to entertain themselves when you are not around.
They need a good supply of branches to chew up.
Leafy branches can be placed in the aviary or cage for the birds to chew up.
This will entertain the birds, help minimize boredom and give the birds
some beak exercise. Natural branches can be used for perches. These
natural perches will be chewed by the birds and may need to be replaced
regularly. Check with local
aviculturalists or an avian veterinarian to ascertain which shrub/tree species
are non toxic and safe to give to the birds.
Conures are best housed as one pair per
cage or aviary and it is generally unwise to have any other birds in the
same aviary. They may kill any bird they do not like.
Diet / Feeding:
Refer to " Conures "
web page for general details on the feeding of Conures.
Along with a quality "small parrot" seed mix, they like a variety of fruits and
vegetables. Most fruits (except avocado) people eat will be eaten
by conures. Most vegetables (except onion) people eat will be
eaten by conures. They love corn-on-the-cob. Thawed frozen
vegetables can be used when fresh is not available.
Dry commercial parrot pellets may form part of a balanced
food intake.
Nesting:
A basic overview only. Dimensions are typical / average and
can vary widely, influenced by the owner's preferences and the birds
preferences. Parent bird's preferences can also be influenced by
the size and type of nest-box / log in which the bird was hatched and reared.
If space allows, offering a choice of sizes and types of logs or nest-boxes, and placed in various locations within the aviary, can allow the parent birds to make their
own choice. Once a pair has chosen a specific nest-box/log and
been successful in it, offer that one to them each breeding season.
Try and keep that one for their exclusive use. Once a pair has
chosen its log or nest-box, the other ones can generally be removed.
If the "spare" boxes are to be removed and moved to another flight,
ensure the log / nest-box is cleaned to ensure the receptacle has the
minimal contamination of mites, parasites and pathogens.
- Nesting months:
- Log / Nest-box:
- Length
/ depth 400 - 600 mm (or approx. 16 - 24 inches)
- Log internal
diameter approx. 200 - 250 mm. (or approx. 10
inches)
- Nest-box internal dimensions approx. 200 - 220
mm square (or approx. 8 - 9 inches square)
- Diameter of
entrance
hole approx. 70 - 80 mm (or approx. 3 inches)
- Inspection hole (square or round)
100 mm
(or approx 4 inches)
- A removable top / lid can be a
useful access point for inspections and for cleaning.
- Location and height
of log / nest-box: = in a sheltered part of the aviary and at about
1.5 - 1.8 metres height, but not too close to the roof to cause heat
problems in the hotter months.
- Angle of log or nest box = 45 degrees through to vertical. Most
boxes are vertical.
- Nesting log / nest-box material: Decomposed non-toxic saw
dust, wood shavings or other suitable material/s.
- Who incubates the egg/s:
Hen / cock / both share.
Timber nest-boxes generally require a
climbing structure attached inside the box below the entrance hole. Both
logs and nests need an entrance hole/opening about 100mm (about 4 inches) from the top. Many species of parrots like the entrance hole
to be just big enough to squeeze through.
More details on
parrot nestboxes/logs and a selection of
parrot nestbox/log photos
can be found on the "nests", "parrot nests"
and "parrot nestbox photos"
web pages. Click on "Up" then "Nests" then "parrot nests"
and "parrot nestbox photos" in
the navigation bars.
Breeding:
Egg Colour White. Clutch/s
per year 2 - 3. Eggs per nest 4 - 6. Incubation approx.
22 - 24 days. Fledge approx 6 - 7 weeks. Independent approx.
another 2 - 3 weeks.
Generally prolific breeders.
Generally good parents. Young are often taken from the nest at 2
- 3 weeks of age if they are to be hand raised.
General practise is to remove the young
birds from the parent
birds and as soon as they are fully independent so as to avoid possible
aggression from a parent.
The Pyrrhura genus hatchlings are
difficult to hand rear as a hatchling and better results are obtained if
they are fostered under other Pyrrhura species. Eggs placed in
another Pyrrhura species nest should have a better chance of hatching
and surviving than those that are placed in an incubator and hand
reared.
Artificial incubation and hand rearing or fostering will not
be covered on this web site. It is too complex and diverse in nature to
be attempted here.
Health Issues:
Refer to "Avian Health Issues"
web page for information and references.
- Worming and parasite control and Quarantine
requirements of new bird/s or sick bird/s are considered to
require veterinary advice and therefore not covered on this web
site. Refer "Avian Health Issues"
web page option.
- Avian medicine is advancing at a rapid pace. Keep
updating your knowledge and skills.
General References: Refer to references listed on "Book References"
web
page.
Specific References:
- Australian Aviculture
- A/A Vol 59 No 9 Sept 2005 Page 203-204.
- A/A Vol 57 No 7 July 2003 Page 137-138.
- Australian Birdkeeper
- ABK Vol 18 Issue 11. Oct-Nov 2005 Page 690-692 (Green cheeked
mutations)
- ABK Vol 15 Issue 6 Dec-Jan 2003 Page 315-316
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