Green cheeked Conure
BirdCare.com.au
PO  Box 126 Mitcham Vic 3132 ( Victoria, Australia )

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. green cheeked conure
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    green cheeked conure photo
  • Scientific Name: Pyrrhura molinae molinae
  • Common Name/s: GREEN CHEEKED CONURE, MOLINA'S CONURE.
  • Sub Species in country / area of origin: 5
  • Origin / Distribution: Brazil and surrounding countries. South America.
  • Habitat In Wild: Tropical forests.
  • Status In Wild: Secure.
  • Status In (Australian) Captivity: Secure.
  • Age To Sexual Maturity: About 24 months.
  • Adult plumage: attained at about ? months
  • Best breeding years (estimate): 2 years onwards
  • Lifespan (estimate): approx. 20 or more years
  • Sexing: Monomorphic / Dimorphic. Surgical or DNA sexing is often necessary.
  • Colour mutations: Yes
  • Availability: Bird dealers.
  • Temperament: Probably the easiest conure in Australia to breed. Can be bred in cages or an aviary. Best kept one pair per aviary. Can can be less noisy than other conures, but check to assess their suitability for a residential area. Like to chew timber. Generally good parents.
  • Cost (Victoria) Per Pair: - Normal colour (Approx.) $650
  • Description Of Adults: Similar to the Maroon bellied conure. The main difference being the Maroon bellied does not have the green cheeks.
  1. Length: Approx 260 mm (or approx. 10 inches)
  2. Colour ( "normal" colour ): Refer photo/s above if available.
  3. Weight: Approx. 90 gms (or approx. 3 ozs)
Aviary Notes:

Level Of Knowledge Required: Beginner / Intermediate / Advanced / Specialist Breeders Only.

Government Regulations & By-Laws:  Refer to " Government Laws " web page.

Housing Requirements:  Refer to " Conures " web page for general details on the housing of Conures.

Can be bred in a cage or an outdoor aviary. A minimum cage size of about 900mm - 1000mm (about 3 feet) long,  600mm (2 ft.) wide and 600mm (2 ft) high is suitable.  The nest box can be externally attached to the cage with an entry hole of about 70 - 80 mm (3in.).

Conures indoors demand a lot of attention and will need a good supply of toys to entertain themselves when you are not around.  They need a good supply of branches to chew up.
Leafy branches can be placed in the aviary or cage for the birds to chew up. This will entertain the birds, help minimize boredom and give the birds some beak exercise. Natural branches can be used for perches. These natural perches will be chewed by the birds and may need to be replaced regularly.  Check with local aviculturalists or an avian veterinarian to ascertain which shrub/tree species are non toxic and safe to give to the birds.

Conures are best housed as one pair per cage or aviary and it is generally unwise to have any other birds in the same aviary.  They may kill any bird they do not like.

Diet / Feeding: Refer to " Conures " web page for general details on the feeding of Conures.

Along with a quality "small parrot" seed mix, they like a variety of fruits and vegetables. Most fruits (except avocado) people eat will be eaten by conures. Most vegetables (except onion) people eat will be eaten by conures. They love corn-on-the-cob. Thawed frozen vegetables can be used when fresh is not available.

Dry commercial parrot pellets may form part of a balanced food intake.

Nesting: A basic overview only.  Dimensions are typical / average and can vary widely, influenced by the owner's preferences and the birds preferences.  Parent bird's preferences can also be influenced by the size and type of nest-box / log in which the bird was hatched and reared.  If space allows, offering a choice of sizes and types of logs or nest-boxes, and placed in various locations within the aviary, can allow the parent birds to make their own choice.  Once a pair has chosen a specific nest-box/log and been successful in it, offer that one to them each breeding season.  Try and keep that one for their exclusive use.  Once a pair has chosen its log or nest-box, the other ones can generally be removed.  If the "spare" boxes are to be removed and moved to another flight, ensure the log / nest-box is cleaned to ensure the receptacle has the minimal contamination of mites, parasites and pathogens.

  • Nesting months:
  • Log / Nest-box:
    • Length / depth  400 - 600 mm (or approx. 16 - 24 inches)
    • Log internal diameter approx. 200 - 250 mm. (or approx. 10 inches)
    • Nest-box internal dimensions approx. 200 - 220 mm square (or approx. 8 - 9 inches square)
    • Diameter of entrance hole approx. 70 - 80 mm (or approx. 3 inches)
    • Inspection hole (square or round) 100 mm (or approx  4 inches)
    • A removable top / lid can be a useful access point for inspections and for cleaning.
    • Location and height of log / nest-box: = in a sheltered part of the aviary and at about 1.5 - 1.8 metres height, but not too close to the roof to cause heat problems in the hotter months.
    • Angle of log or nest box = 45 degrees through to vertical.  Most boxes are vertical.
  • Nesting log / nest-box material: Decomposed non-toxic saw dust, wood shavings or other suitable material/s.
  • Who incubates the egg/s: Hen / cock / both share.

Timber nest-boxes generally require a climbing structure attached inside the box below the entrance hole. Both logs and nests need an entrance hole/opening about 100mm (about 4 inches) from the top. Many species of parrots like the entrance hole to be just big enough to squeeze through.

More details on parrot nestboxes/logs and a selection of parrot nestbox/log photos can be found on the "nests", "parrot nests" and "parrot nestbox photos" web pages.  Click on "Up" then "Nests" then "parrot nests" and "parrot nestbox photos" in the navigation bars.

Breeding: Egg Colour White.  Clutch/s per year 2 - 3.  Eggs per nest 4 - 6.  Incubation approx. 22 - 24 days.  Fledge approx 6 - 7 weeks.  Independent approx. another  2 - 3 weeks.

Generally prolific breeders.  Generally good parents.  Young are often taken from the nest at 2 - 3 weeks of age if they are to be hand raised.

General practise is to remove the young birds from the parent birds and as soon as they are fully independent so as to avoid possible aggression from a parent.

The Pyrrhura genus hatchlings are difficult to hand rear as a hatchling and better results are obtained if they are fostered under other Pyrrhura species.  Eggs placed in another Pyrrhura species nest should have a better chance of hatching and surviving than those that are placed in an incubator and hand reared.

Artificial incubation and hand rearing or fostering will not be covered on this web site. It is too complex and diverse in nature to be attempted here.

Health Issues: Refer to "Avian Health Issues" web page for information and references.

  • Worming and parasite control and Quarantine requirements of new bird/s or sick bird/s are considered to require veterinary advice and therefore not covered on this web site. Refer "Avian Health Issues" web page option.
  • Avian medicine is advancing at a rapid pace. Keep updating your knowledge and skills.

General References: Refer to references listed on "Book References" web page.

Specific References:

  • Australian Aviculture
  • A/A Vol 59 No 9 Sept 2005 Page 203-204.
  • A/A Vol 57 No 7 July 2003 Page 137-138.
  • Australian Birdkeeper
  • ABK Vol 18 Issue 11. Oct-Nov 2005 Page 690-692 (Green cheeked mutations)
  • ABK Vol 15 Issue 6 Dec-Jan 2003 Page 315-316

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